A bracing Coffee Break ($13) mixing Appleton Rum, Mr. Espresso cold brew coffee, Mandarine Napoleon orange liqueur, house mole bitters – subtle coffee and candied orange notes
DIRTY HABIT, Union Square (12 Fourth St. between Market and Mission in Hotel Palomar, 415-348-1555)
The patio fireplace
Though I will miss the upscale inventiveness of the menu at Fifth Floor, thankfully, the same team is in effect at its new, more casual incarnation, Dirty Habit, opening Thursday, 5/1. Chef David Bazirgan, Pastry Chef Francis Ang, Master Sommelier Emily Wines and Lead Bartender Brian Means have created all new menus. The space has not only been completely remodeled in comfortably chic, warm tones, but what was the extended dining room has now become a sleek outdoor patio with rectangular rock fireplace that is set to be one of the coolest downtown hangout/gathering spots.
As I visited last week for a sneak preview and taste-through of most (12) of the cocktails (not including the classics and the barrel aged cocktails) and a number of dishes, I don’t see how this new spot couldn’t be a hit. With playful, quality drinks in equally fun and lovely vintage glassware, stellar spirits collection, standout dishes – elevated lounge food, the staff’s informed welcome, and comfortable chairs in the seductively dim space – not to mention that killer patio – the one safeguard from the hordes is its fifth floor location, tucked away upstairs location in the Hotel Palomar.
Here are some initial bites and cocktails of note via photos:
Femme Fatale ($13): an Avua Cachaca, Ancho Reyes chile liqueur, coconut, lime cocktail – with boba, soda water, and sprinkling of espelette pepper on top
The sleek new patio
One of my favorite cocktails, Spritz & Giggles ($13), is a bottled and carbonated Belvedere Vodka drink with tart/bracing strawberry shrub, Sutton Cellars vermouth, and corn tea – a dash of salt makes it sing
Killer chicken wings ($10) – among the best in town – crispy in sweet soy and chili vinaigrette
Another of the best cocktails: Chupacabra ($13), mixing Del Maguey Vida Mezcal, Los Altos Blanco Tequila, Aperol, grapefruit cordial, lime, Sal de Gusano (ground Oaxacan salt, chile & worms) – it’s tart with grapefruit, salty, subtly smoky, bright with chili & bitter orange notes
House charcuterie platter ($16) – all meats & pates made in house except for the speck – with house beef tendon chicharrones and pickled vegetables and pickled Persian plums
In front of Dirty Habit lunchboxes is the Ludovico Technique ($13): Absolut Vodka, blueberry, Dry Madeira, lemon, verjus, sipped from a bendy straw with notes of green grass, dried grapes and blueberry
Another brilliant dish ($16): octopus – some of it tender, other tentacles are crispy confit-style – eggplant, pine nuts, cherries
Pink Elephant ($12): Ford’s Gin, Martini & Rossi Rosato Vermouth, Small Hands Pineapple Gum Syrup, orange bitters, a dash of St. George Absinthe – herbaceous and tart
Completely remodeled lounge area
Green Thumb ($13): Tanqueray No. 10 Gin, Carpano Bianco, Green Chartreuse, nectar essence made from African tea with a Tanqueray Rangpur Gin base
Fried lamb belly bao (steamed buns) with peanuts ($5)
Marigold ($13): Cutty Sark Prohibition Edition Scotch, Luxardo Apricot liqueur, house apricot bitters, Laird’s Applejack – slightly smoky-sweet with apple blossom notes
Loveable Trixter ($12): Plymouth gin, lime, blackberries, sage, over crushed ice
Another favorite, Wink & A Nod ($12), mixes Bulleit Rye Whiskey, Cynar (Italian artichoke liqueur), Galliano Ristretto (Italian coffee liqueur), Fernet BrancaMenta (Italian herbal mint liqueur) – notes of rye bread, chocolate, mint, bitter herbal notes, espresso
Dirt Nap ($10) combines Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth infused with porcini mushrooms, Lustau “Don Nuno” Oloroso sherry, King’s Ginger Liqueur – it is earthy with dried mushroom and sweet ginger notes
Leather & Lace ($12): James Pepper Rye Whiskey, Lustau “Peninsula” Palo Cortado sherry, Licor 43 for sweetness, and house tobacco bitters with shaved cardamom on top – the cocktail is nutty, dry, sweet, aromatic
Get Me A Juicebox! ($24): order your own Dirty Habit lunchbox, complete with a can of PBR beer (or, in this case, Negro Modelo), house bar nuts and a hot toddy cocktail in a thermos