THIRD RAIL, Dogpatch (628 20th Street at Third Street)
The desolate streets of Dogpatch have continued to come alive with food and drink destinations over recent years. Not long after Dogpatch Saloon re-opened as ideal neighborhood bar with quality cocktails, Third Rail, long in the works from Range owner/chef Phil West and bar manager Jeff Lyon, just opened December 12th.
The space is warm, chic, relaxed, separated into intriguing nooks and corners, providing a sense of intimacy. Paxton Gate team Sean Quigley and Todd McCrea subtly infuse the bar with railway touches, like a huge, vintage French train station clock, all nods to the bar name referring to the Third Street rail that runs just outside.
Lyon’s cocktail menu is grouped in four categories – aperitif, seasonal, citrus, spirituous – with four cocktails in each group. In following his menu through the years at Range, this menu keeps the same straightforward elegance, refined taste without fussiness, with drinks like the Spotlight (manzanilla sherry, pear eau de vie, Domaine du Canton ginger liqueur, celery bitters) a full realization of drinks he crafted at Range. The Spotlight is one of my favorites on the initial menu: its clean, invigorating, soft with pear and ginger, complex with sherry.
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The jerky menu ($2.50-3 each or per oz.) is an unusual, playful touch, the meaty, savory, sometimes spicy elements of jerky nicely complimenting bracing drinks. Red eye jerky is an eye-opener rubbed with coffee, morita chile, dry mustard, cumin, while cowboy jerky is lively with pineapple, onion, jalapeno. The vegetarian side is no afterthought: vadouvan vegetable (carrot) jerky is imbued with flavor from caramelized shallot, curry leaf, and turmeric.
Third Rail is another big win for the Dopgatch ‘ hood. Here’s a photo journey and tasting notes from a few cocktails on the initial menu: