Delicate, perfectly prepared veal sweetbreads
THE SQUARE, North Beach (1707 Powell St., 415-525-3579)
[Note: Unfortunately, not too long after this review, Claire Sprouse was no longer at The Square and the menu format changed, too, so I can no longer vouch for its quality.]
One of the most popular drinks of the 1960s (created in the ’50s), Harvey Wallbanger ($11) upgraded: vodka, Italian bitters, vanilla, orange, lemon weave into a not too sweet yet juicy whole
The Square surprised me. As the second incarnation in a historic North Beach space since the legendary Washbag (Washington Square Bar & Grill) closed in 2010, I half expected it to be a mediocre replacement, especially after perusing the menu. The initial impression was a pretty typical modern-day menu.
The housemade Parker rolls are one of the many highlights, served free with fennel pollen and super soft butter
But after dining here twice, I quickly realized every dish I’d had was far better than it sounded. Even delicious. I knew the cocktails would be strong under the direction of Bar Manager Claire Sprouse (of Rickhouse and Tradition), and her drinks are what brought me in not long after opening at the end of February. Sprouse’s cocktails are classy twists on cheeky ’70s and 80s cocktails typically shunned in the revival of artisanal cocktails. She takes these “dark ages” cocktails, often loaded with vodka and fruit juice – like a Tequila Sunrise or Appletini, and brings them into balance for a more educated palate.
As with many dishes on the menu, more wonderful than it sounds: roasted strawberries ($9) blissfully coexist with tart fromage blanc ice cream, a graham cracker and fresh spearmint
Even the baby kale salad ($12) is better than average dotted with feta and pistachio
The Square was opened by chefs Matt McNamara and Teague Moriarty (of Michelin-starred Sons & Daughters and Sweet Woodruff) who oversee dishes that have an unexpected amount of comfort and ease, starting with warm gougeres ($8) oozing fromage blanc cheese and chive.
I’ve not had one letdown among the dishes over a few visits. In photos, here are some food and drink highlights in the initial 2 1/2 months of The Square.
Succulent rabbit platter for two, accented by edible flowers and morel mushrooms
One of my favorites on the menu: the Appletini redeemed with Calvados (French apple brandy), Leopold’s Sour Apple liqueur from Denver, lemon, and a splash of St. George Absinthe
Heartwarming barley risotto ($16) marked by green garlic, lemon zest, maitake mushrooms
The Square dining room and bar
Another delightful play on a ’70s/80s favorite, Sprouse takes it to new territory as a Clarified White Russian ($12). Instead of vodka, it’s rye whiskey with coffee, milk, brown sugar and allspice, clarified like classic milk punches, resulting in a clean, creamy, lovely cocktail.