These 10 restaurants remain some of our best and should not be forgotten amongst a winning sea of newcomers. Whether modern Indian, Cal-Japanese, North African or pizza, these spots are better than ever. As always, I’ve personally vetted and visited each. In the case of all but the 91-year-old Italian eatery (!), I’ve dined at all since they opened:
Modern Indian Creativity from Veggies to Meat: Tiya, Marina
What: As one of my best new restaurants of 2024, Tiya is a superb modern Indian restaurant from chefs and brothers Sujan and Pujan Sarkar, helmed by Pujan as Sujan lives in Chicago at his fabulous Michelin-starred Indienne, as he oversees restaurants globally.
Why: Elevated, inventive Indian food and Izler Thomas’s inspired culinary cocktails set an example for modern Indian restaurants everywhere, chef Pujan goes delightful places like a pao-meets-babka masala bread or Cali-Indian quesabirria.
Standout Dishes & Drinks: Returning for chef Pujan’s winter tasting menu — though a la carte is always an option here — there were numerous new joys. I’ve written about his mastery of vegetarian dishes before, and that was proven again in irresistible canapés like a savory masala onion kachori “cookie” shaped like leaves, filled with tamarind ginger gel. Potato tikki chaat is an inspired veggie winner in ragda mousse with touches of raspberry, mint and a shiso crisp.
He excels at it all, though. Chicken gushtaba is insanely good, I’ve been craving it. A giant chicken meatball in a fondue of Amul cheese (the ultimate processed creamy Indian cheese) with leeks and truffles, topped with a chicken-shaped cracker. It’s lush, rich, irresistible. Pair with a chili cheese kulcha and it’s divine. Dessert bites like mini-paan cannoli or amraas mango bonbons showcase Pujan’s playful creativity.
Izler’s cocktails are their own draw. His latest Mission District cocktail is what clarified milk punches should be: a delicate, layered mix of blanco tequila, Ancho Reyes Verde, guava, cilantro, carrot, avocado and yogurt. It’s subtly savory, vegetal, sweet, tart and creamy, creating an aromatic whole with nuanced balance many bartenders never achieve.
Organic, biodynamic wines are another strength here. Recent wine pairings included a winsome 2024 Cantina Della Volta La Svolta sparkling red from Italy’s Emilia-Romagna, and an earthy 2020 Diamantakos Xinomavro from Naoussa, Greece.
// 3213 Scott Street, www.tiyasf.com
Read the rest on Substack: 10 SF Restaurants Remaining (Quietly) Great