These newcomers or new menus cover the gamut, from elevated German beer hall fare to Sichuan Chinese. Alongside this month’s full restaurant reviews, these six are also worth visiting, with last month’s standouts here (as always, I’ve personally vetted, visited or ordered from each place reviewed): Read more →
A World-Class New Era for a Reborn, Decades-Old SF Sushi Favorite: Akikos
From The Shota to Omakase, San Francisco already has a wealth of Michelin-starred sushi bars, and many besides of that ilk (Oma SF Station, Ken, Sasa, Kusakabe, An Japanese, or hip counterparts like Robin and Chisai Sushi Club, to name just a few). Now we have another. But it’s a familiar name to San Franciscans: Akiko’s. Read more →
December Eats Checklist: 7 Standouts of the Month
These newcomers or new menus cover the gamut, from Sebastopol (Sonoma County) treasures in Thai and pizza to SF gems in Creole/Cajun, Japanese and elevated bar food. Alongside this month’s full restaurant reviews of these exceptional spots, these seven are also worth visiting, with last month’s standouts here (as always, I’ve vetted, visited or ordered from each place reviewed): Read more →
One Year In: Creative NorCal Japanese Shines at Nisei
On a recent September return to Nisei just past its one year mark, I found a restaurant assuredly gaining its voice, as the team is also working seamlessly with humble ease and assuredness. They also now offer a wine or sake pairing, the wine pairing containing a couple sakes in the mix. Chef David Yoshimura calls their style “California Washoku” (essentially meaning ‘harmony of food,’ it’s Japanese home cooking style balancing color and flavor… Read more →
An Ode to Japanese Wagyu… Sans the Steak: Gozu
Imagine: soba noodles teeming in wagyu foam. Brown butter chawanmushi (savory Japanese custard) layered in fat-washed wagyu dashi. Or wagyu fat-laced salted chocolate chip cookies hot out of the oven.I’m in and am guessing you are, too (unless you don’t eat beef — and if you do minimally, this is the place to do so thanks to the quality and the minimalism). These are just a few of the glories I’ve eaten at Gozu in SoMa from chef Marc Zimmerman and entrepreneur Benjamin Jorgensen since it opened November 2019. Read more →
This Japanese Restaurant Casually Schools Patrons on Sake & Sushi: Pabu
Roughly eight years later, why Pabu remains one of our great “whole package” Japanese restaurants, complete with a (rare) master of sake, robatayaki, sushi bar and multi-room space offering a range of options from casual bar visit to full sushi, Japanese feast or robata dinners.
Le Fantastique: Your New Music, Wine & Bites Hangout
Im my The Bold Italic column and weekly restaurant reviews, a new Hayes Valley restaurant, Le Fantastique, that marries McIntosh amps, vinyl and a tight, smart team with superb raw, cured and aged fish, small plates, white Burgundy and Champagne.
‘California Washoku’: On Full Display at Nisei + Next Door at Bar Iris
Published November 19, 2021, in my The Bold Italic column and weekly restaurant reviews, my review of Nisei and its new next door bar, Bar Iris, a modern Japanese-American fine dining play in California Washoku cuisine.
Chisai Sushi Club Is for Nigiri Fanatics & Novices Alike
My review of Chisai Sushi Club, with chef Erik Aplin and team taking over the long-beloved original Ichi Sushi space.
Top 5 Hit List of the Month: Restaurant Newcomers + Better-Than-Ever Favorites
Published October 7, 2021 at The Bold Italic: From two notable newcomers to three tried-and-true greats (one just reopening, one just gaining its first Michelin star) plus one bonus new bar, these are five top places to eat, feast and support now?.