These five restaurants — two new, one recently reborn, two quietly holding strong — do comfort food right. With a strong side of booze, whether exemplified in martini carts or martini menu sections. They might be a classic or modern steakhouse that also runs heavy on seafood, or a comfort food restaurant that deftly weaves between surf and turf.
Comfort Food Haven: Grand Lake Kitchen, Noe Valley
Soft opening in March 2026, then hitting with brunch and seven days a week in April 2026, Grand Lake Kitchen (GLK) in Noe Valley is the first SF location but the third location of the Oakland favorite from May Seto Wasem and Dave Wasem, with two Oakland originals in Grand Lake and Dimond. Given May’s SF roots, including her Noe Valley years post-college, the couple met working at legendary Balboa Cafe and worked many years in the restaurant industry before opening their comfort food spots.
The corner space in SF’s cozy Noe Valley neighborhood (my home for six years) has seen a lot of turnover, name and ownership changes, most recently as cozy Mr. Digby’s. Much of the Digby’s remodel is left intact, while chef Dave is doing comfort dishes right, given the multiple dishes I tried recently. The sweet staff — our server and host, who grew up in the neighborhood — warmed our hearts and made us feel at home.
Standout Dishes & Caveats: There’s more I want to try on this extensive menu at this delight of a comfort food newcomer. On my recent dinner, I made a beeline for Reuben fries, layered in pastrami, Swiss cheese, Russian dressing and sauerkraut, though I could have used more of the latter two ingredients. Still, I was gratified by the loaded fries modeled off one of my all-time favorite sandwiches, the Reuben. Smoked (local) trout and trout roe toast is trendy, but happiness when done right as it is here, touched with horseradish tonnato and pickled red onion.
Read the rest on Substack: Beyond Steak, Seafood & Martinis: 5 Old School-Style Restaurants Keeping It Fresh