Off Menu Joys:
New Cocktail Bars Don’t Need Menus

When first visiting LA’s Library Bar at the beginning of 2011 (where I’ve returned a few times now), I wished for a closet-sized, farmers market bar such as that with no menu and ultra-talented bartenders. There’s the grandaddy of the speakeasy resurgence, New York’s Milk & Honey, which has been doing the menu-less thing since 2000, but Library Bar made it exciting with daily-changing produce from local farmers markets to inspire your whims.  These two SF new bars are serving fabulous custom cocktails sans menus their own way – and are only able to do so because of the talent behind the bar, appealing to your mood of the moment with panache.

RIO GRANDE, Mid-Market (1108 Market St. at 7th) 

I’ve written about the Bon Vivants (Scott Baird and Josh Harris) numerous times over the years, from early days at 15 Romolo to recent consulting for the menu at Berkeley’s new Comal. As we anticipate their long awaited Mission bar Trick Dog, I’ve been having fun at Rio Grande, essentially a bar they just launched next door to ATO (A Temporary Offering), a genius pop-up concept for local entrepreneurs to test new ideas from FoodLab dinners to shops and art events at the Renoir Hotel. Using the hotel’s vacant space, the revolving projects add to the revitalization of the seedy stretch of Market near 7th.

The Vivants’ Rio Grande feels like a South of the Border cantina, heavy on the tequila, mezcal and even bourbon.  Under the gaze of Wild Turkey bourbon and Espelon tequila logos painted near the ceiling, there’s a glowing shrine to the Virgin Mary, a cowhide splayed in the entrance, and 1945-47 Mexican newspapers lining the wall behind the bar. Let’s not call them stripper poles but the bar boasts a pole on either end for whatever shenanigans might ensue, while a mini stage is set for live music. Even when there’s no bands, the tunes are just my speed: a little bit of hard rock, a lot of classic country (think Waylon, Hank I and II, your general outlaw cowboy musicians).

To exist sans menu, it’s crucial that bartenders are talented, knowledgeable and versatile. They couldn’t be more on the right path with bartenders Morgan Shick (who you’ll see here most nights) and Russell Davis (who’s generally there weekends). Shick is one half of Jupiter Olympus (the other is Eric Quilty at Adesso in Oakland), a bar and restaurant consulting company that throws some crazy, old world, out-of-the-box parties. We’ve seen Shick at bars from Marzano to the flagship Michael Mina. I’ve judged numerous cocktail contests and whenever Shick is an entrant, his sense of balance and ingenuity stands out every single time.

What kind of drinks are happening here? Anything from a Tecate to whatever drink might suit your fancy. I’ve sipped a mezcal and yellow chartreuse winner or a bitter amaro beauty on crushed ice, Julep snow cone-style (speaking of ice, they hand cut ice here, a pleasure to watch). In the spirit of a Paloma, on one visit Shick made a mezcal, grapefruit soda drink accented with crème de cassis (black currant liqueur), lime, Luxardo Maraschino liqueur and salt: smoky, refreshing, salty and citrus-y. Spiced Fall notes shine in a mixture of Siete Leguas anejo tequila, Averna for a tinge of bitter balance, Angostura orange bitters, sweet vermouth and apple brandy. I’m in love with a finish of Old Bardstown bourbon, Nocino walnut liqueur, Balcones rum-like Rumble (made from Texas wildflower honey, Mission figs, turbinado sugar), plus dry vermouth and triple sec. Dry, sweet and full, it still feels “manly” enough to put hair on your chest. Ideal for this burly, comfortable cantina.

Partnered w/ hotel – all three are partners (Josh, Scott, Jason) – initially going to be 9 months to 1 year but now may wait and see w/ plans for rooftop bar in future and Kor group that owns hotel really likes what they’re doing and may keep it; could be a gypsy/nomad bar if they end up having to move spots – border town/roadhouse feel “Tarantino Once Upon a Time in Mexico feel”; built out in 3 weeks – 5:30am he & Josh could still be there w/ powersaws, etc… built all high top tables themselves and worked with a guy on metalwork; Josh is an estate sale fiend; cow hide is from estate sale; cheap beers (Bud and Dos Equis); shot of tequila and beer for $7 – “take all the pretentiousness out of it and make it fun”; batched Old Fashioned cocktails batched in chiller machine – on tap; Del Rio will be next batched/on tap cocktail one of named after adult film actress Vanessa del Rio which Scott named it’s his recipe after her (had minor obsession after her) repo, fino sherry, St. Germain, orange bitters – up there next to Virgin Guadalupe; Scott named drink Rio Grande at Coco 500 w/ Justin Simoneaux born of loving whiskey and tequila so named a cocktail Rio Grande: like a whiskey sour (served 15 Romolo)

BIG, Tenderloin (761 Post St. between Leavenworth & Jones)

Big may be an oxymoron – this tiny space opened from the crew behind Jones, is literally just a few seats, one little bar, and when the bar is full at around 25 people, be prepared to wait at the door until space clears (they will text you when it does). Brian Felley (previously from Fleur de Lys and Garcon – neither exactly cocktail destinations) works here most nights with one other bartender and a barback, and is, as mentioned above, skilled enough to pull out cocktail winners off the cuff. Similar to the aforementioned Library Bar, there’s a bit of an herb and produce spread though not near as extensive as at Library Bar, while Felley is adept at assessing preferences, taking his time to craft you “just the thing”.

Vintage glassware encases bitter beauties featuring beloved liqueurs like Bittermens Amère Sauvage and a couple I’m not familiar with Salers Gentiane Apéritif. For a final sip, Felley has whipped smoky sippers for me featuring Bunnahabhain Scotch with Dolin dry vermouth, while their hickory-smoked gin is a smoky gin twist, bright with with grapefruit, ginger, lime, and simple syrup. I’ve been on the elusive hunt for their sweet corn fizzes which they recently tweeted about but which are only available when sweet corn is in the house.

They’ve only recently expanded from being open merely Thursdays through Saturdays to adding on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Though they list 6pm as opening hour, they say if the kerosene lamp outside their door is lit, they’re open, if not, they’re closed. I must admit I’m not a fan of variable hours. Though I can see the free-spiritedness of such an approach, people like myself are planning their meals and drinks weeks ahead and for when we’re in a certain area – I have to map out as many places as I can get to like a complicated puzzle. To have a space unexpectedly close or open late without notice is one of my biggest pet peeves. So far, they’ve been open when I’ve showed up and I hope that they will generally adhere to listed hours so that you can make it there soon. If you are a cocktail aficiando, this bar holds a unique experience, one not exactly like the many other excellent bars around the city. If you are not, don’t go here to try the same old thing: be open and ready to expand your tastebuds and try something different.