Published June 24, 2022, in my The Bold Italic column:
A few elements must align to come into one’s own voice and it’s never a one-time deal but an ongoing evolution. Maturity, experience and time are the oft-discounted but key factors to holistic integration for those pursuing it. However, other crucial pieces include timing and the right platform/s from which to express one’s voice.
When bartenders find “a voice,” some drinks on their menu recall others around the world, but you’ll taste a decided perspective, a unique take. With the very best bartenders, a culinary stance and impeccable balance are crucial. It takes a disciplined, honed palate to delicately combine ingredients in a glass, mirroring the same precision in food.
Frankly, a small percentage of bartenders ever reach this point. I’ve trekked to a few thousand bars past my 12,000+ restaurants around the world (I can hit up more cocktail tastings in a day for research than I can food). While I’ve sat at the bar of literally thousands of the world’s best bartenders in six out of seven continents the past 20 years, my list is short of those who truly express a singular “voice” in drinks beyond the classics, trends or common variations.
Normally, this Friday review is devoted to restaurants: and both these new bars serve food, so we’ll get into that. But this week, it’s more about drink menus on par with great food and about two women coming into their voice on their current menus.
Previous Bold Italic Restaurant reviews:
— Michelin-Starred SF Great 10 Years In
— One of the Best Restaurants to Come Out of 2020 from Chef & Pastry Masters
— Raising the Handroll Game from a Michelin-Starred Sushi Restaurant
— May Eats Checklist: Korean BBQ to Mexican Brunch
— Refreshingly Audacious, Bold Newcomer for Pizza & Natural Wine
— New Modern Korean Needs Honing But Shows Promise Where It Matters: On the Plate
— Ideal New Neighborhood Hang Serves 99 Flake, Heartwarming Food & Cocktails
— Retro-Chic Lounge with Secret Cocktails & Stellar Food
— Buzzy (Yet Hit-or-Miss) Italian in the Marina
— Turkish Time (raki to Turkish tea) in SoMa
— Unexpected Tasting Menu Delights in Petaluma
— Tributing Thai Cuisine, Women, Culture & Bold Deliciousness
— Modern Indian Food (Still) Inspires
— A Modern Russian Oasis in Noe Valley
— Themed Tasting Menu Releases Your Inner Child
— 5 New Bars & Bar Menus to Drink (and Eat) Now
— Pasta Heaven at a Newly Reborn Modern Classic
— Old School Steakhouse Keeps Classic SF Spirit Alive
— 8 Places to Eat & Drink Now, East Bay Edition
— Buzzy New Rooftop Spot Transports to Peru
— Beer Restaurant of the Future
— 6 New Restaurants Worth Visiting This Month: February 2022
— Vietnamese Chef Legend Charles Phan’s New SF Sandwich Shop
— Tropical Rooftop Vibes & A Team Centered Around Core Values
— 6 New Spots Worth Visiting: Cafe, Bar & Food Truck Edition
— Childhood Whimsy and Gourmet Goodness north of the Panhandle
— 5 New Restaurants Worth Visiting This Month Around the Bay Area
— This Japanese Restaurant Casually Schools Patrons on Sake & Sushi
— When Two Michelin Italian Masters Open A Casual Italian Spot
— Live-Fire Cooking Like You’ve Never Experienced Before
— One of the World’s Best Restaurants Turns 11 Years Old
— Reimagined a Decade Since Opening, a Slice of Comfort in Downtown SF
— TBI’s Top 12 New Restaurants (+ Bars) of 2021
— Your New Music, Wine & Bites Hangout
— Mid-Market’s New Tapas Slice of Spain But With Art Deco Vibes
— Female Indian Chef Goes Vegetarian
— Castro’s Newcomer Imparts a Festive, Collaborative Vibe The Space Hasn’t Exuded in a Decade
— ‘California Washoku’ On Full Display
— (Experimental, Creative) Breakfast for Dinner
— Flour+Water’s New Italian Sister Restaurant
— Among the Best Moroccan Food in the Country
— This New Sushi Club Is for Nigiri Fanatics & Novices Alike
— SF’s Only & Most Authentic Portuguese Restaurant
— SF’s New Escape to Mykonos from Michael Mina
— A Rotating Showcase for Top Global Chefs
— SF’s Ultimate Gastronomic Escape to Roma
— New Modern Filipino Destination From Chef Francis Ang & Bartender Kevin Diedrich
— New Traveler Menu Offer Jaunts Around the World
— The Bay Area’s Best Indonesian Restaurants Is In … Redwood City?
**All my food, drink & travel Bold Italic articles here