An Ode to Japanese Wagyu… Sans the Steak: Gozu

Rare Mars Japanese whisky

Published July 29, 2022, in my The Bold Italic column:

Imagine: soba noodles teeming in wagyu foam. Brown butter chawanmushi (savory Japanese custard) layered in fat-washed wagyu dashi. Or wagyu fat-laced salted chocolate chip cookies hot out of the oven. I’m in and am guessing you are, too (unless you don’t eat beef — and if you do minimally, this is the place to do so thanks to the quality and the minimalism). These are just a few of the glories I’ve eaten at Gozu in SoMa from chef Marc Zimmerman and entrepreneur Benjamin Jorgensen since it opened November 2019.

Full review: https://thebolditalic.com/gozu-in-sf-is-an-ode-to-japanese-wagyu-sans-the-actual-steak-686609eb7a4

Gozu’s starter trio

Previous Bold Italic Restaurant reviews:
— Chinese Fine Dining Unlike Anywhere Else
— Sonoma County Vegan from Three Michelin Team
— Our #1 New Restaurant of 2021, Over 1 Year In
Live Music from Conservatory Students with Food from Chef Legend Loretta Keller
—  Two Female Bartenders & New Bars With A Perspective You Can Taste in the Glass
— June Eat & Drink Checklist: 5 Standout Newcomers
—  Michelin-Starred SF Great 10 Years In
— One of the Best Restaurants to Come Out of 2020 from Chef & Pastry Masters
— Raising the Handroll Game from a Michelin-Starred Sushi Restaurant
— May Eats Checklist: Korean BBQ to Mexican Brunch
— Refreshingly Audacious, Bold Newcomer for Pizza & Natural Wine
— New Modern Korean Needs Honing But Shows Promise Where It Matters: On the Plate
— Ideal New Neighborhood Hang Serves 99 Flake, Heartwarming Food & Cocktails
— Retro-Chic Lounge with Secret Cocktails & Stellar Food
— Buzzy (Yet Hit-or-Miss) Italian in the Marina
— Turkish Time (raki to Turkish tea) in SoMa
— Unexpected Tasting Menu Delights in Petaluma
— Tributing Thai Cuisine, Women, Culture & Bold Deliciousness
— Modern Indian Food (Still) Inspires
— A Modern Russian Oasis in Noe Valley
— Themed Tasting Menu Releases Your Inner Child
— 5 New Bars & Bar Menus to Drink (and Eat) Now
—  Pasta Heaven at a Newly Reborn Modern Classic
— Old School Steakhouse Keeps Classic SF Spirit Alive
— 8 Places to Eat & Drink Now, East Bay Edition
— Buzzy New Rooftop Spot Transports to Peru
— Beer Restaurant of the Future
— 6 New Restaurants Worth Visiting This Month: February 2022
— Vietnamese Chef Legend Charles Phan’s New SF Sandwich Shop
— Tropical Rooftop Vibes & A Team Centered Around Core Values 
— 6 New Spots Worth Visiting: Cafe, Bar & Food Truck Edition
— Childhood Whimsy and Gourmet Goodness north of the Panhandle 
— 5 New Restaurants Worth Visiting This Month Around the Bay Area
— This Japanese Restaurant Casually Schools Patrons on Sake & Sushi
— When Two Michelin Italian Masters Open A Casual Italian Spot
— Live-Fire Cooking Like You’ve Never Experienced Before
— One of the World’s Best Restaurants Turns 11 Years Old
— Reimagined a Decade Since Opening, a Slice of Comfort in Downtown SF
— TBI’s Top 12 New Restaurants (+ Bars) of 2021
— Your New Music, Wine & Bites Hangout
— Mid-Market’s New Tapas Slice of Spain But With Art Deco Vibes
— Female Indian Chef Goes Vegetarian
— Castro’s Newcomer Imparts a Festive, Collaborative Vibe The Space Hasn’t Exuded in a Decade
— ‘California Washoku’ On Full Display
— (Experimental, Creative) Breakfast for Dinner
— Flour+Water’s New Italian Sister Restaurant
— Among the Best Moroccan Food in the Country
— This New Sushi Club Is for Nigiri Fanatics & Novices Alike
— SF’s Only & Most Authentic Portuguese Restaurant
— SF’s New Escape to Mykonos from Michael Mina
— A Rotating Showcase for Top Global Chefs
— SF’s Ultimate Gastronomic Escape to Roma
— New Modern Filipino Destination From Chef Francis Ang & Bartender Kevin Diedrich
— New Traveler Menu Offer Jaunts Around the World
— The Bay Area’s Best Indonesian Restaurants Is In … Redwood City?
**All my food, drink & travel Bold Italic articles here

Gozu’s tofu and caviar
Gozu’s wagyu & squash blossom platter