On a recent September return to Nisei just past its one year mark, I found a restaurant assuredly gaining its voice, as the team is also working seamlessly with humble ease and assuredness. They also now offer a wine or sake pairing, the wine pairing containing a couple sakes in the mix. Chef David Yoshimura calls their style “California Washoku” (essentially meaning ‘harmony of food,’ it’s Japanese home cooking style balancing color and flavor… Read more →
Imagine: soba noodles teeming in wagyu foam. Brown butter chawanmushi (savory Japanese custard) layered in fat-washed wagyu dashi. Or wagyu fat-laced salted chocolate chip cookies hot out of the oven.I’m in and am guessing you are, too (unless you don’t eat beef — and if you do minimally, this is the place to do so thanks to the quality and the minimalism). These are just a few of the glories I’ve eaten at Gozu in SoMa from chef Marc Zimmerman and entrepreneur Benjamin Jorgensen since it opened November 2019. Read more →
Roughly eight years later, why Pabu remains one of our great “whole package” Japanese restaurants, complete with a (rare) master of sake, robatayaki, sushi bar and multi-room space offering a range of options from casual bar visit to full sushi, Japanese feast or robata dinners.
Im my The Bold Italic column and weekly restaurant reviews, a new Hayes Valley restaurant, Le Fantastique, that marries McIntosh amps, vinyl and a tight, smart team with superb raw, cured and aged fish, small plates, white Burgundy and Champagne.
Published November 19, 2021, in my The Bold Italic column and weekly restaurant reviews, my review of Nisei and its new next door bar, Bar Iris, a modern Japanese-American fine dining play in California Washoku cuisine.
My review of Chisai Sushi Club, with chef Erik Aplin and team taking over the long-beloved original Ichi Sushi space.
Published October 7, 2021 at The Bold Italic: From two notable newcomers to three tried-and-true greats (one just reopening, one just gaining its first Michelin star) plus one bonus new bar, these are five top places to eat, feast and support now?.
My latest article for The Bold Italic, published August 6, 2021 (my regular Bold Italic articles here), covers seven of the top new Bay Area restaurants worth visiting now. Article here:
My latest article for The Bold Italic, published April 30, 2021 (my regular Bold Italic articles here), covers 5 of Japantown’s best (the very first and one of only a couple Japantowns left in the nation):
During the pandemic, our beloved dining and drink communities continue to struggle to survive, so my dining column includes takeout/delivery and outdoor dining standouts. This month we cover the gamut from Argentinian empanadas to Japan-worthy sushi. Read more →