With a little under 40,000 Italian population in San Francisco alone, we’re home to one of the stronger Italian demographics in California. Our rich Italian immigrant history since the 1800s (no surprise) has left a permanent mark on our food and drink, from our wine regions and grape varieties, to Italian-immigrant-created local dishes like cioppino.
Thus, our Italian restaurants are deep and plentiful, whether exploring regions of Italy, two and three Michelin Italian icons (looking at you, Quince and Acquerello), old school American-Italian gems, cozy trattorias or forward-thinking pasta pioneers. In this two-part series, I dig into nine Italian greats — new and seasoned — ending with these five restaurants. Part one is here.
Upscale Italian newcomer Shimmers By the Ballpark: Via Aurelia
Opening October 9, 2025, Via Aurelia is the more upscale restaurant — with tasting and a la carte menus — from Che Fico chef David Nayfeld and business partner Matt Brewer (Back Home Hospitality, BHH). Housed in Visa’s new building with a view of the San Francisco Giants’ stadium, the expansive, 216-seat space looks very different from Che Fico restaurants. From lounge and horseshoe bar to heated waterfront patio and cozy nooks, the space is soothing in Tuscan tones … think soft blues, olives, terracotta.
THE Dish (or Dishes) To Order: Nayfeld showcases his mastery of pasta with some of the standout dishes in that category. Over a couple visits, I tried various plates and most recently, the tasting menu. I love dense, udon-like (but chewier) pici noodles. His pici all’aglione is sheer comfort in Sonoma squab ragu dotted with fried rosemary and pecorino Toscano cheese. Tortelli mugellani are baby Yukon potato and mascarpone-filled dumplings over a ragù Toscano della Nonna in Parmigiano espuma foam. This version evokes sighs of happiness. These hot little pockets of pasta goodness hit all the right notes.
On the antipasti or starters side, an upscale version of my beloved panzanella salad is a heirloom tomatoes and cucumbers in season, but for winter, it was beets, cerignola olives and basil topped with a paper-thin fried sourdough cracker. On the larger plate (secondi) side, seared capesante (Maine diver scallops) arrive over seasonally-changing elements, like fennel, citrus, butter beans and taggiasca olives. Gallina faraona (guinea hen) is heartwarming over farro, cipollini onions and rutabaga in salsa reale (truffle butter), with a juicy, black truffle hen sausage pretty much stealing the show.
Dolci (dessert) is a highlight here, heavy on traditional Italian cookies, house gelato and sorbetti, plus dishes like schiacciata all fiorentina, a traditional orange cake from Florence with whipped cream and orange curd. I love their torta della nonna in particular. Having had multiple lovely versions in Italy and the world, this blessedly not-too-sweet cake sings with vanilla custard, rosemary, lavender and pine nuts.
Drinks: Curated by BHH director of wine Jason Alexander, heavy on Tuscan and Italian wines from a 650+ bottle list (with a little California and France in the mix), lead sommelier Justin Branon Rodriguez graciously walked us through a rich pairing from Sicily to Piedmont with the tasting menu. Surprises included the silky Yucho Kaze No Mori “Wind of the Woods” Sake and mineral 2022 Domaine Albert Morot Beaune Premier Cru “Les Aigrots” White Burgundy.
BHH bar director Danielle Peters-Clossey crafts as lovely a cocktail menu as I’ve known her to do in Sonoma County at notable restaurants over the years and at Che Fico restaurants. Classics and modern classics — like a Bitter Giuseppe or Southside — get their own section, alongside non-alcoholic (NA). House cocktails impress with nuanced balance, like the fantastic Piccolo Pomodoro, combining white whiskey, aquavit, tomato water, lovage, Veso tomato vermouth, cucumber and lemon. Peters-Clossey’s fine subtlety plays beautifully in the already nationally celebrated Via Aurelia Martini (Taggiasca olive gin, Veso Olive Vermouth, manzanilla sherry, shio koji) or the juicy but refined Birdcage (pisco, kiwi, genepy, lime, cape gooseberry, vin santo, black lime, sumac). The dairy-free yet creamy Pegasus is another cocktail delight of tequila, fig leaf, tangerine oil, bitter bianco, cardamom, lime and coconut yogurt.
// 300 Toni Stone Crossing, SF; www.viaaureliasf.com
Read the rest on Substack: Italy (Still) Rules in SF, Part 2