A day trip or overnight in stunning Napa Valley is joy, and a regular part of the lives of many San Franciscans. In this guide, I’ve squeezed in a “cheap eats” spot, a 40-year restaurant classic and a notable new cocktail bar in the nearby town of Napa, but stay centered in Yountville. As Napa Valley’s most famed foodie town, Yountville is home to the legendary French Laundry since the 1960s.
Around it has grown a bustling main street with a walkable stretch of restaurants, boutique hotels, walkable garden trails and an impressive outdoor art trail of rotating artist’s sculptures. It’s a chichi town, to be sure, but whether historic greats like French farmhouse treasure Bistro Jeanty, Thomas Keller’s original and best Bouchon, or the striking 1870 V Marketplace housing shops and quality chocolatiers like Kollar Chocolates, it’s a village with high density of excellent meals.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Villagio at The Estate Yountville
With a massive remodel in 2019, Hotel Villagio is a top place to stay in Yountville alongside eco-chic destination Bardessono, although I didn’t check out Villagio’s spa. Connected to everything in the Estate Yountville complex, it’s in the heart of the town’s main drag and walkable to everything, though a longer 15-ish minute walk up to outliers like French Laundry and Ciccio. While you can hear all day music and poolside activity from rooms facing the pool, rooms are pristine whites and neutrals, soothing and high end, from ceramic white tubs to fireplace and marble. My corner room had a little deck overlooking the palm and olive tree-lined pool. The soothing lobby serves a pleasant morning breakfast spread, with red pool table and grand piano by night. Villagio is a welcome home base from which to roll in and out to meals and wine tastings.
// 6481 Washington Street, Yountville; www.theestateyountville.com/stay/hotel-villagio
EAT
The Grand Damé: The French Laundry
The French Laundry (TFL) needs no introduction. From its gorgeous 1900 stone building that was first the Eagle Saloon, to its 1978 to early 1990s era under Don and Sally Schmitt. In 1994, it reopened under Thomas Keller, who personally raised money from more than 60 investors to purchase TFL. Since, it became a three Michelin, #1 World’s 50 Best legend and one of the most famous destination restaurants in the world, while chef Keller launched and trained countless of the world’s top chefs.
From its idyllic, magical courtyard garden with massive oak tree, to its multi-room Napa farmhouse with dining rooms on both floors, it’s one of the most romantic restaurants anywhere. I’m pleased to say returning late Fall 2023, it’s as superb as ever. It feels classic with its Cal-French influence, but not staid. From killer house bonbons of garden-fresh mint, for example, to their famed starter coronet cone bite, TFL confirms it deserves its continued highest Michelin rating possible. It’s pricey, indeed, but remains truly special.
The coronet was a playful everything bagel with cream cheese, while a trio of shima aji sashimi, malt-accented sardines on toast and big fin squid in scallion oil and celery, showcase seafood in ways that don’t feel cliché. The wine cellar remains deep, world-class, with bottles to suit all palates. Whether mini-beef Wellington or a pitch-perfect gougere oozing cave-aged Comte fondue with truffles, decadence abounds and portions are properly small, though I was stuffed by the time we got to 14 of them and a dessert course that was no less than six mini-dishes. I’m happy to say, TFL’s still got it.
// 6640 Washington Street, Yountville; www.thomaskeller.com/tfl
Rustic Italian Happiness: Ciccio
Ciccio is certainly a Yountville fave, but one of my tops in the Valley in general. Opened in 2012 by Frank and Karen Altamura (still owners), the rustic, early 1900s wood-framed building is a charmer. But in 2023, one of the Valley’s great chefs, Christopher Kostow, of tragically burned three-Michelin-starred Restaurant at Meadowood, Loveski and The Charter Oak reopened Ciccio as managing partner with wife Martina. It’s better than ever, still focused on wood-fired pizzas, pasta, now with ingredients from Meadowood’s farm.
Highlights hold yeast, whether focaccia with garlic gutter, or the pizzas’ blistered crusts, especially a beautifully simple, impeccable tomato pizza dusted in oregano, breadcrumbs and stracciatella cheese. Other standouts include Sicilian sashimi, bright with preserved lemon, capers and red onion; Don Bocarte anchovies in olive oil and crushed chiles; and fluffy-dense cacio e pepe gnudi dotted with burnt peppercorns and local Pennyroyal cheese.
Sleeper hits? A hefty, breaded pork chop Milanese enough to feed a few and dotted with garden cucumbers in tonnato, a dreamy Italian sauce of tuna, anchovies, lemon, olive oil and mayo. And a bowl of ridiculously perfect Emerald Beaut Plums from Ten Brink Farms, since the best plums in the world grow in neighboring Sonoma County. Sipping Scarpetta sparkling rosé from Friuli or a balanced cocktail like Don’t Be Such a Prune (Ford’s Gin, plum, oolong tea, egg whites, bitters), Ciccio is a heartwarming feast.
// 6770 Washington Street, Yountville; www.ciccionapavalley.com
A 40 Year Classic: Mustard’s Grill
Opening in 1983, it’s hard to imagine Napa without Mustard’s Grill, named after Napa’s winter glory of wild mustard flowers that grow across vineyard floors in a vivid sea of yellow. Opened by legendary SF chef Cindy Pawlcyn, at 40 years old, the bustling, ever-busy, from lunch to dinner gray roadhouse remains a familial, casual yet quality place. There is truly something for everyone here, the kind of menu that reads all-American and heartwarming but is in true NorCal Bay Area form, gourmet with world’s best ingredients result in dishes better than they would be most places. Ever-changing seafood tostadas, that iconic mountain of onion rings or strips dipped in house apple ketchup or killer sweet corn tamales, burgers, salads to pork chops warm the heart. Mustard-marinated pork chop — or even better, tender rabbit when it’s available — with changing seasonal sides may be my favorite entrée here.
// 7399 St. Helena Highway, Napa; https://mustardsgrill.com
Seasonal Napa: The Restaurant at North Block
In 2021, I wrote about North Block Hotel’s growth from a good pizza restaurant to chef Nick Tamburo’s stepped-up menu. I’ve had a cozy stay at the intimate, 20-room hotel in the past, with its Mediterranean-inspired stucco-and-stone and center courtyard. In 2023, the restaurant reopened with a new food and cocktail program, including cocktails from my SF friends, WestBev Consulting.
The inviting space with indoor and courtyard seating is now home to chef Juan Cabrera (previously at nearby Chandon winery). The menu may not be as interesting as Tamburo’s, but is all-around gratifying while cocktails are improved. Sipping The Windbreaker (Veso Strawberry Solstice aperitif, gin, bitter bianco vermouth, amontillado sherry and lime oil for silky texture), I savored pitch-perfect toybox tomatoes over silky buffalo mozzarella in a decadently vibrant sungold tomato vinaigrette showcasing the glory of NorCal heirlooms.
Starters were similarly ingredient driven vs. experimental, while stone-baked flatbreads like the Journeyman mortadella, pistachio, Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam cheese and royal trumpet mushroom flatbread, showcase nearby Sonoma and Marin artisanal producers and local ingredients. Liberty Duck breast with fregola Sardinian pasta (rather like Israeli couscous), shallot marmalade, Tenbrink Farms black mission figs and bordelaise sauce was an ideal representation of the region on the entrée side.
// 6757 Washington Street, Yountville; https://northblockyountville.com
Legit Mexican Newcomer: Mother’s Taco
Open since January 2023 in a former Pizza Hut, Mothers Tacos is a Mexico City-style taqueria and win for the town of Napa. The town of Sonoma has long had far better Mexican food than the entire Napa Valley, but Charles Whittaker and Benedict Koenig opened this legit spot blatantly across from Taco Bell, with bright red stools and chairs outside a green-striped little building, serving agua frescas and specials like chicharron or tripe tacos. The whole menu refreshingly hovers around $7.25, topping out at $15.
Unexpectedly, as one who had to come around to mushrooms, their mushroom mulitas con queso (two tortillas sandwiched with tons of cheese, chopped onion, cilantro, garlic-sauteed shiitake and cremini mushrooms, caramelized onions) is my favorite dish, with meat mulitas aplenty. The tacos are legit, whether pork al pastor or chilorio, Sinaloan style braised pork. Their loaded fries are another house favorite and given the authenticity, it’s easily a top Mexican food stop in Napa.
// 3150 A Jefferson Street, Napa; https://motherstacos.com
Cal-Italian Stalwart: Bottega
Famed celebrity chef and Food Network personality Michael Chiarello sadly passed away late 2023, with a history touched with controversy and long-beloved restaurants, Coqueta in SF and Bottega in Napa Valley. The Yountville institution opened in 2008 in the striking 1870 V Marketplace building. With fir wood floors, timber tables, brick and stone and Murano glass chandeliers, the restaurant ambles from indoors to hidden back patio, ideal on a sunny Napa day for lunch. I recently did just that, a good decade having elapsed since I last dined at Bottega. Chiarello’s Cal-Italian food and Italy and California wine list — plus a Coravin by the glass list — are inviting as I remember. There’s still a bit of that Wine Country aughts’ vibe, but it’s comforting and the kind of space good for families and groups.
Starting with crudo is the right choice (on my recent visit, silky hamachi dotted with white sturgeon caviar, garlic, basil, Calabrian chile ponzu, fried orange zest), while a thinly shaved brussels sprouts salad is a true highlight, tossed in bright Meyer lemon dressing with Marcona almonds, sieved egg and Pecorino Romano cheese. A prime example of California salads long being better than anywhere else in the world. Pasta and risotto comfort, but it was their fluffy ricotta gnocchi in vibrant tomato sauce that is simple perfection. Even a vivid orange Bad Bunny cocktail (La Luna Bottega mezcal, cold pressed carrot juice, orange water, orgeat) was more gratifying than expected. Bottega remains a good Yountville stop.
// 6525 Washington Street, Yountville; www.botteganapavalley.com
BARS
The Fink, Napa
The kind of place where classic country/twang rarities like Speedy West and Jimmy Bryant are playing in the background? Where Searsucker Sundays or live music by uber-cool bands like Twango Valentino (hot jazz, Western swing, Hawaiian steel guitar) or Western swing of Aaron Burnham & The Brushfires reflect a normal night? Open July 2023, The Fink is a deep music lovers’ dream bar and a rarity in Napa County, conveniently situated in walkable downtown Napa.
It’s also a classic cocktail-centric bar from Napa’s own Judd Finkelstein (aka “The Fink”), and owner of Judd’s Hill Winery. I geeked out on cocktails with this winemaker at least a decade ago, learning of his home cocktail game, tiki love and dream of owning his own bar. His dream finally came true and like Judd, The Fink is a truly welcoming place with unique, quirky decor from SoCal-based designer Daniel Gallardo, aka “Tiki Diablo.” It’s not literal tiki so much as haunted boathouse in keeping with the space’s boathouse history on the Napa River. The dark space glows with red and green boat lights, old movie prop rum crates, vintage artifacts, portholes over booths, ship netting and comfy couches and chairs alongside booths and bar seating. Cocktails are fun, though not overly refined compared to big city bars. In keeping with Judd’s history founding FOAM (Friends of Ardent Mixology) in 2004 around Napa Valley cocktails, he’s growing the Valley’s bar scene with true Napa welcome. His hospitality feels like Napa of days gone by and though he’s also steeped in wine, he shows us Napa is about much more.
// 530 Main Street, Napa; https://thefinknapa.com
WINE TASTING ROOMS
Silver Trident Winery
Oceania Cruises vet, Bob, and his husband Walter from Switzerland retired and share their love of wine in their cozy Silver Trident Winery cottage on Yountville’s main drag. From their gorgeous plaid fabric-walled private tasting room, they have fun local partnerships: local Naysayer Coffee roasts Silver Trident’s own coffee beans and create their own lush olive oil produced in nearby St. Helena and Healdsburg, both for sale.
At only 3500 bottles annually, their wines are for club members only, custom crushed at Laird’s to keep every-pricy Napa wines affordable. Self-made winemaker Kari Auringer impressively pivoted at age 45 from graphic designer to studying winemaking at nights in NorCal at Davis and Sonoma State. For Napa, these are reasonable: ranging from $31 for a crisp Apollo’s Folly 2022 Carneros Rosé or better-than-typical New World Sauvignon Blanc, Symphony no. 9, to a range of Pinot Noir, Malbec, red blends and the priciest $149 Friends & Family Cabernet. A tasting paired with different flavors of Zapp’s potato chips from New Orleans is inspired genius, making a wine tasting here fun.
Hestan Vineyards
Opened in 2014 on Yountville’s main drag by the family behind Hestan ranges and cookware, the sunny, modern Hestan Vineyards is both a shop for their striking cookware and stoves, and tasting room for their roughly 6000 case wine produced from grapes mostly grown not far from Napa Valley in Fairfield. The work with two different winemakers, Thomas Rivers Brown (a single variety expert) and Jeff Gaffner (Pinot Noir and blending expert), to make a wide range of wines from Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, to Grenache, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir (a standout), Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet. Friendly staff and the culinary connection make it a pleasant respite for a wine tasting.