Category: Top Tastes

Two-Year-Old Neighborhood Michelin Revamped on Precita Park: Marlena

by  on  in Top Tastes

Marlena bravely opened in September 2020 in the throes of pandemic (my initial review here), in the former Hillside Supper Club space, from husband-wife chef duo David Fisher and Serena Chow Fisher (who cooked at venerable Jean-Georges and Eleven Madison Park in NYC, as well as Sorrel in SF and Bird Dog in Palo Alto). I named it one of the top 6 openings of 2020, a bleak year for restaurants globally. They went on to gain a Michelin star in 2021, hailed for “deftly marrying simplicity with sophistication.” Indeed. Read more →

One Year In: Creative NorCal Japanese Shines at Nisei

by  on  in Top Tastes

On a recent September return to Nisei just past its one year mark, I found a restaurant assuredly gaining its voice, as the team is also working seamlessly with humble ease and assuredness. They also now offer a wine or sake pairing, the wine pairing containing a couple sakes in the mix. Chef David Yoshimura calls their style “California Washoku” (essentially meaning ‘harmony of food,’ it’s Japanese home cooking style balancing color and flavor… Read more →

September Eats Checklist: 6 Standouts of the Month

by  on  in The Latest, Top Tastes

Though I’ve eaten everywhere this month from Adriano Paganini/Back of the House group’s latest, Rad Radish, to the new Arepas Latin Cuisine and Fiddle Fig Cafe in North Beach, these six newcomers (or new menus) stood out in September, covering the gamut, from Brittany-style French crêpes to NY slice pizza. Alongside this month’s full restaurant reviews, I share what’s worth tasting at each, with last month’s standouts here (as always, I’ve vetted, visited and/or ordered from each place reviewed): Read more →

Fort Point Valencia’s Playful Take on SF-Style Seafood & Historic SF Dishes

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In February 2022, I visited and reviewed Fort Point Valencia as it reopened. Reborn from a long pandemic closure, it was a shining example of a local, SF-based brewery with a unique, fresh style and focus… But with the recent departure of chef Eric Ehler and the arrival of new culinary director Cecile Macasero (former chef de cuisine at SF’s Michelin-starred Thai great, Kin Khao, which, thankfully, is about to reopen, and of Renee Erickson’s award-winning Sea Creatures group in Seattle), the food has totally changed to a refreshing — and playful — take on SF-style seafood. Read more →

Upscale Chinese with a View in SF Chinatown: Empress by Boon

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San Francisco’s Chinatown is the oldest in North America, a dense, rich Chinese community since the 1850s. In these charming, narrow streets, legendary Empress of China began restoration in 2019 and after a long wait and pandemic delays, opened June 2021 as Empress by Boon, a gorgeous Atelier LLYS-designed, 7,500-square-foot space with killer views over Chinatown, North Beach, Coit Tower on Telegraph Hill and the Bay… Read more →

From Louisiana to Jordan, Turntable at Lord Stanley Showcases Global Chefs in SF

by  on  in On the Town, Top Tastes

In September 2021, I wrote here about the pandemic evolution of Michelin-starred Lord Stanley into Turntable at Lord Stanley, an exciting residency for chefs from around the globe and the U.S. to showcase their beloved menus, concepts they’re working on or other collaborations with the tight and consummate Lord Stanley team. Returning this August 2022, I experienced chef Melissa M. Martin’s cooking from New Orleans’ lauded Mosquito Supper Club: Read more →

An Ode to Japanese Wagyu… Sans the Steak: Gozu

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Imagine: soba noodles teeming in wagyu foam. Brown butter chawanmushi (savory Japanese custard) layered in fat-washed wagyu dashi. Or wagyu fat-laced salted chocolate chip cookies hot out of the oven.I’m in and am guessing you are, too (unless you don’t eat beef — and if you do minimally, this is the place to do so thanks to the quality and the minimalism). These are just a few of the glories I’ve eaten at Gozu in SoMa from chef Marc Zimmerman and entrepreneur Benjamin Jorgensen since it opened November 2019. Read more →

Our #1 New Restaurant of 2021, Over 1 Year In: Ernest

by  on  in Best Of, Top Tastes

Ernest opened March 2021 in the lofty, two-tiered, industrial space that formerly housed Coffee Bar. One year into the pandemic — which means they were in planning mode well before — was one of the worst times to open a restaurant, especially an ambitious one. Next door to legendary Heath Ceramics, and in a neighborhood lined with nationally lauded restaurants and bars, Ernest entered seamlessly into that tier.

Now, a few visits later and over one year in, my review on Ernest today: Read more →