Visionary Cal-Moroccan at Mourad SF

by  on  in Top Tastes

Mourad Lahlou’s Mourad is the best upscale modern Moroccan restaurant I’ve been to in the U.S. Mourad’s visionary Cal-Moroccan cuisine, a more upscale sibling to his long-beloved, more casual Aziza, has been a trailblazer in that category since he opened it in San Francisco’s Richmond District in 2001.

Just after I wrote this review, California Michelin stars were announced earlier this week, and I am puzzled as to why Mourad would lose its Michelin star of multiple years, especially given the tighter-than-ever service, drink pairings and dishes I experienced there last week. When not one but three dishes leave a deep impression, that already is well above the average. I’ll explain. Read more →

Roman Pinsa Multiplies in SF: Montesacro Marina

by  on  in The Latest

When Roma native Gianluca Legrottaglie opened Montesacro in SoMa in 2015, it was the first proper Roman pinseria in the nation, complete with pinsaiolis (akin to a pizzaiolo) from Rome. Not familiar with pinsa? It’s an ancient Roman-style pizza, oval-shaped, happily crispy and airy simultaneously and made from a more easily digestible fermented soy, rice and wheat flour blend. Montesacro’s thoughtfully-made recipe remains the best I’ve had anywhere.

… in June 2022, San Francisco gained their second Montesacro in the Marina. Read more →

December 1, 2022

by  on  in Intro Letter

THIS ISSUE:
— November Eats Checklist: 7 standout restaurants & newcomers of the month.
— Seoul Guide: Where to dine & stay in Korea’s capital city.
— Malaysian Buzz in Sleepy Outer Noe: The new Damansara.
— Rosemary & Pine: Playful neighborhood comfort from Michelin-starred team.
— Distiller Magazine Honolulu: Interview with Pint+Jigger and Harry’s Hardware Emporium bar manager Dave Newman. Read more →

Malaysian Buzz in Sleepy Outer Noe: The new Damansara

by  on  in The Latest

In deep dives tasting my way around Singapore, to my love for dear departed places like Indonesian great Warung Siska (chef Siska Silitonga, please come back!), I am crazy about the unique cuisines of this island-heavy corner of Southeast Asia. This includes Malaysia, which deeply informs much of Singaporean cuisine as its very close neighbor and sister. Together, they’re known for incredible dishes like kaya toast or laksa soup (although there are styles of laksa in Indonesia and southern Thailand as well). So I was certainly delighted when I heard chef Tracy Goh found an outer Noe Valley brick-and-mortar space for her Malaysian pop-up, Damansara, opened October 19, 2022. Read more →

Rosemary & Pine: Playful Neighborhood Comfort from Michelin-Starred Team

by  on  in The Latest

Debuting October 13, 2022, Rosemary and Pine (R&P) opened in the former Skool space on a sleepy block of San Francisco’s Design District, nestled between SoMa, Mission Bay and Potrero Hill. R&P is the latest restaurant from the Omakase Restaurant Group behind the likes of Michelin-starred steakhouse Niku, Michelin-starred sushi spot, Omakase, and Dumpling Time, all three around the corner from R&P. The space is warmer since Skool days, redesigned by Aya Yanagisawa, in neutral tone like a warmer-than-olive green, with a glowing bar and huge asset of a roomy, hidden front patio. Read more →

November 15, 2022

by  on  in Intro Letter

THIS ISSUE:
— Tenderheart: Chef & bar masters work their magic at the new Line Hotel SF.
— Rich Table 10 Years In: Celebrating one of the best restaurants in the nation.
— NYC Bar Guide: My top 10 newer — and a few modern day classic — NYC bars now at Gin Magazine.
— Distiller Bottle Column: I review Mexican rum, pisco, gin, shrubs, mezcal, vodka, American whiskeys, non-alcoholic spirits, RTDs (canned/bottled cocktails).
— Healdsburg Adventures: With SingleThread, Little Saint and Montage, thanks to Remy Martin Cognac and Michelin. Read more →