Guam Island Breezes in the Mission at Prubechu

Keleguen: lemon-cooked chicken, scallions, sesame seeds on coconut flatbread (titiyas)r

PRUBECHU, 2487 Mission St. between 24th & 25th, 415-952-3654

Revamped interior

Merely open two and a half months, Prubechu – meaning “you’re welcome” – is easily the tasting menu steal in the city. For merely $40, it’s an imaginative five courses touched with fine dining flair in an uber-casual setting.

As the city’s only Chamorro (Guamanian) restaurant, the island breezes of Guam first come in the form of a warm welcome from Chef Shawn Naputi and business partner Shawn Camacho (fellow Shawn and Guam native). Music envelops the still humble but completely revamped space in a warm glow that reminds me more than a little of Hawaii. The musical style evokes slack key guitar, ukulele lullabies and other sounds akin to – but different than – traditional Hawaiian music.

Amuse bouche of Somerset, WA, oysters in kiwi “mignonette” and coconut vinegar fermented to a 90 proof spirit called binakle tuba, the typical “moonshine” of Guam

Pulling from his grandmother’s recipes and the high-quality/low-price tasting menu concept modeled after Naputi’s days cooking with Chef Manny Torres Gimenez in the space’s former restaurant, Roxy’s Café (Gimenez is now down the street at The Palace), Prubechu also offers an a la carte menu ($3-16).

Changing house pickles ($3) might include eggs, cauliflower, kohlrabi, turmeric daikon, kimchee

Changing house pickles might include eggs, cauliflower, kohlrabi, daikon, kimchee

Sous vide egg, asparagus, smoked asparagus puree, achiote powder-dusted rice crackers

It’s hard to decide what I love more: the tasting menu or the a la carte offerings, the former more delicate and exciting, the latter, heartier and gratifying. Best to go more than once as you’ll want to try it all – and as soon as you wait a couple weeks, it will change again. As I’ve not been lucky enough (yet) to visit Guam, it helps to get an education on its comforting, flavorful cuisine here.

Escabeche – fish poached in citrus/rice wine vinegar – with confit baby octopus, eggplant, okra

From the a la carte menu, keleguan ($12) is mounds of shredded, lemon-cooked chicken mixed with green onions and coconut on two coconut flatbreads that look like mini-tortillas. In fact, they’re called titiyas, a name derived from a Guam attempt at pronouncing the Spanish “tortillas”, given such influences on the island’s cuisine.

Another a la carte offering is tinatak ($14): tender, handmade capellini noodles, tossed with ground, sugar snap peas and okra in a lemon coconut milk sauce. It’s sheer, home-style comfort, sliding down easy with a bottle of Ballast Point Sculpin IPA ($6). Ubiquitous pickled items ($3) are a pleasurable palate cleanser, changing often but can include pickled eggs, cauliflower, kohlrabi, daikon, and a delectable house kimchee.

Chalikilis: toasted rice porridge, achiote, dried-seared-applewood smoked pork jerky (tinino katne) – like BBQ ribs rubbed only in salt, pepper and garlic – pork belly, boquerones, enoki mushrooms, sous vide quail egg, sugar snap peas

And about 30% use therapy on a regular basis. viagra discount india It strengthens your immune system and improves your sexual health, depression is the most common cause among all which is best price on levitra responsible for impotency. Is discount cialis the way to increase pancreas function naturally? Let’s look at the numerous treatments available for impotence. Based on effectiveness and tolerance, the dose may levitra side effects be increased to 20 mg or decreased to 5 mg, based on individual efficacy and tolerability.

Atlantic salmon, pickled sea beans, avocado, orange, sesame seeds

Atlantic salmon, pickled sea beans, avocado, orange, sesame seeds

The five course tasting menu ($40) begins with an amuse bouche of an oyster from Somerset, Washington, bright in kiwi “mignonette” with a liquid base of coconut vinegar fermented to 90 proof, based off a spirit (the typical “moonshine” of Guam) called binakle tuba.

Counter seating

Counter seating

Sashimi-style Atlantic salmon is a pristine first course, mingling with pickled sea beans, avocado orange segments, and sesame seeds.

A sous vide-cooked egg runs seductively over crunchy asparagus and achiote powder-dusted rice crackers in smoked asparagus puree. Creamy yolk, smoky notes, and fresh green crunch results in a dreamy Spring veggie dish.

Braised oxtail kadu (stew) in coconut soy vinegar broth, smoked potatoes, mung bean noodles, carrots, pea tendrils

Braised oxtail kadu (stew) in coconut soy vinegar broth, smoked potatoes, mung bean noodles, carrots, pea tendrils

Escabeche (spelled eskabeche in Guam) is slightly crispy fish poached in citrus, partnered with tender baby octopus, vibrant in rice wine vinegar. I immediately craved more of that octopus. The dish is rounded out by bits of eggplant, okra, sunflower sprouts and marinated onions.

Chalikilis is a toasted, achiote-laced rice porridge that would make an empowering breakfast. Pork belly, enoki mushrooms, a sous vide quail egg and slippery-fresh boquerones (anchovies) add intrigue to the porridge, but I found myself doing a double-take (or taste) with tinino katne, a chunk of dried, applewood-smoked pork jerky rubbed in salt, pepper and garlic, delightfully reminiscent of southern BBQ/dry pork ribs. The dish is even better with heat: a side of blissfully spicy denanche hot pepper sauce, made in house, and a staple condiment in Guam.

Salted coconut ice cream topped with toasted coconut and crumbled macadamia nuts, based on a Guam coconut treat cooked down with brown sugar

Salted coconut ice cream topped with toasted coconut and crumbled macadamia nuts, based on a Guam coconut treat cooked down with brown sugar

The last savory course: fall-apart, braised oxtail kadu, a stew in coconut soy vinegar broth, punctuated with smoked potatoes, mung bean noodles, carrots, pea tendrils. The oxtail shines, rich yet not heavy. From my limited experience, a common thread in Chamorro cuisine seems to be flavor-rich sauces, broths, and plenty of vinegar, adding complexity to seemingly simple dishes like porridge or stew.

Dessert is inspired by a popular kids treat in Guam where coconut is cooked down with brown sugar. Chef Naputi crafts salted coconut ice cream marked by toasted coconut and crumbled macadamia nuts.

Refreshing island breezes, flavors, music and farewells send me off into a warm, Spring evening, eager to return.

Tinatak ($14) handmade capellini noodles, ground chuck/beef, sugar snap peas, okra, lemon, beans?, coconut milk sauce

Tinatak: handmade capellini noodles, ground chuck, sugar snap peas, okra, lemon, coconut milk sauce