Category: Top Tastes

Tributing Thai Cuisine, Women, Culture & Bold Deliciousness: NARI

Call Pim the Queen of modern Thai food. Named on Esquire’s shortlist of Best New Restaurants in America after opening in 2019, Nari’s chef/owner Pim Techamuanvivit is recently one of five final nominees for Best Chef: California at this year’s upcoming James Beard Awards… Most notably, all five California chef finalists this year are AAPI… two are Thai women. Read more →

Modern Indian Food (Still) Inspires: ROOH SF

Published April 8, 2022, in my The Bold Italic column: With the pandemic closure of local treasures like August 1 Five, SF’s modern Indian options are fewer. Thank God for ROOH. With a name meaning ”soul” or “spirit,” ROOH has been a SoMa “progressive Indian” dining destination since 2017. Open flame, tandoori-focused ROOH Palo Alto location is its totally different, worthwhile sister, having the misfortune to… Read more →

Merchant Roots’ Themed Tasting Menu Releases Your Inner Child

In the back of the cozy Merchant Roots wine shop, chef Ryan Shelton launched his first themed tasting menu in January 2019. I’ve raved about these wildly changing, eight-seat dinners ever since. You could call each playful, whimsical, creative, even intellectual, always blessedly delicious.

Yet still too few of you know about it or have dined there. Certainly, it’s Michelin-worthy. But in a spirited, mischievous, smart way, unlike anywhere else. Read more →