April 15, 2022

THIS ISSUE:
— Tributing Thai Cuisine, Women, Culture & Bold Deliciousness: One-of-a-kind Thai restaurant, Nari, from Pim Techamuanvivit and team, the full review.
— Modern Indian Food (Still) Inspires: At ROOH SF, the full review.
— Distiller Bottle Column: I review rum, Cognac, gin, liqueurs, tequila, Irish whiskey, bourbon, vodka, RTDs (canned/bottled cocktails, tonics, syrups).
— A Modern Russian Oasis in Noe Valley: My full review of the new Birch & Rye.

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Tributing Thai Cuisine, Women, Culture & Bold Deliciousness: NARI

Call Pim the Queen of modern Thai food. Named on Esquire’s shortlist of Best New Restaurants in America after opening in 2019, Nari’s chef/owner Pim Techamuanvivit is recently one of five final nominees for Best Chef: California at this year’s upcoming James Beard Awards… Most notably, all five California chef finalists this year are AAPI… two are Thai women. Read more →

Modern Indian Food (Still) Inspires: ROOH SF

Published April 8, 2022, in my The Bold Italic column: With the pandemic closure of local treasures like August 1 Five, SF’s modern Indian options are fewer. Thank God for ROOH. With a name meaning ”soul” or “spirit,” ROOH has been a SoMa “progressive Indian” dining destination since 2017. Open flame, tandoori-focused ROOH Palo Alto location is its totally different, worthwhile sister, having the misfortune to… Read more →

A Modern Russian Oasis in Noe Valley: Birch & Rye

Of all times to open a Russian restaurant… but, of course, Birch & Rye, debuting February 2022, has been in the works long before the current dire events in Russia and Ukraine. Chef/owner Anya El-Wattar dove in head-first to aid Ukraine by way of her upcoming “Dine for Ukraine” April 13 fundraiser dinner with none other than Dominique Crenn. Why Birch & Rye is a special new modern Russian food (and drink) oasis: Read more →

April 1, 2022

— Willy Wonka Wonderland: Merchant Roots’ themed tasting menu releases your inner child.
— March Eats Checklist: From bagels to banh mi, five newcomers (and one seafood classic) to dine at now.
— 5 New Bars & Bar Menus to Drink (and Eat) Now: Whether a gorgeous new bar with heartwarming food or a The World’s 50 Best Discovery Bar reborn after a devastating fire, these five are worth drinking at now.
— Los Angeles Travel: Spring 2022 Restaurant & Food Guide.
— Reinventing Rare Classic Gin Cocktails: At bars in San Francisco, Hong Kong & London.
— Pasta Heaven: Reviewing the newly reborn Flour + Water.
— Distiller Magazine: My Interviews with Redbird bar manager Tobin Shea & The Spirit Guild distiller Miller Duvall in Los Angeles.

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Merchant Roots’ Themed Tasting Menu Releases Your Inner Child

In the back of the cozy Merchant Roots wine shop, chef Ryan Shelton launched his first themed tasting menu in January 2019. I’ve raved about these wildly changing, eight-seat dinners ever since. You could call each playful, whimsical, creative, even intellectual, always blessedly delicious.

Yet still too few of you know about it or have dined there. Certainly, it’s Michelin-worthy. But in a spirited, mischievous, smart way, unlike anywhere else. Read more →