Paris… adored by millions but a struggle for me since my first visit in 1999. With high girlhood, romantic dreamer expectations, I FELT the idea of Paris in my bones. But in my first weeks there, this was no Années Folles, or artistic 1920s heyday I dreamed of. Beautiful, yes. But it felt cold, caustic, arrogant and unflinching. Certainly cynical.… Read more →