These newcomers or new menus cover the gamut, from modern Colombian to an Italian tavola calda/osteria. Alongside my latest restaurant reviews — Alora (Mediterranean), Sonoma County eats, five fine dining standouts — these ten are also worth visiting, with last month’s standouts here. As always, I’ve personally vetted and visited each:
Evolved Beautifully 14 Years In: Prospect
Prospect was one of my top restaurants of the year when it opened in 2010 from the Boulevard crew (another great that soars decades in) and James Beard award-winning chef Nancy Oakes, chef Pam Mazzola and Kathy King. It’s a confirmation of how silly we are with dining and drink excellence in San Francisco that I can easily forget about Prospect. I hadn’t dined here in years, yet find returning at 14 years, it has evolved in beautiful ways.
I was there when it first opened, remembering a stellar starting team that included chef Ravi Kapur (of Liholiho and Good Good Culture Club) and bar manager Brooke Arthur. The long, lofty space and huge bar might look a bit staid, recalling the aughts, but it’s soothing and refined with warm service and a rich menu. Think a proper Hokkaido milk bread graced with poppy seeds and whipped Thai tea butter. Or a killer onion dip.
They deftly execute light dishes like a Star Route Farms little gem salad dotted with radicchio, pickled greens strawberries, poached rhubarb, “hippie crunch,” Manchego cheese and buttermilk dressing, or silky kampachi crudo in coconut lime sauce with pomelos, green almonds, mint and herb oil. They likewise shine with creative dishes like roasted duck breast layered in charred leeks, kohlrabi root, pea tendrils and a nutty-lush mix of house chili crunch, sesame oil vinaigrette, foie sauce and peanut butter hoisin lacquer. The sommelier deftly pairs wines from a tight global list while cocktails like The King’s Resurrection (Barsol Pisco, Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto liqueur, cashew syrup, lemon, egg white) is a frothy, intriguing sip at the bar or to start a meal. All reasons to return to this shining SF longtimer.
// 300 Spear St., www.prospectsf.com
Ground Floor Peruvian Shines with Sushi & Cocktails: KAIYŌ Restaurant & Bar
Opened by John Park of Brick x Brick Hospitality Group in April 2024, I expected the new KAIYŌ Restaurant & Bar, debuting on the ground floor of SoMa’s Hyatt Place Hotel, to be similar to KAIYO Rooftop upstairs or even the original KAIYŌ in Cow Hollow. But it’s truly its own thing. Far more chill than the buzzy Rooftop, ground floor KAIYŌ is colorful, intimate, hip, with a heavier focus on Nikkei, the unique culinary genre of Japanese Peruvian developed in Peru since the 1800s from its mashup of cultures. This is exemplified in a tiny sushi counter helmed by sushi chef Kenji Sawada (former sushi sous chef at PABU). KAIYŌ chef Alex Reccio also ensures notable dishes for non-fish lovers, including a coffee-ginger brined bone-in pork chop and anticucho de lomo fino: Black Angus filet mignon in smoky chimichurri with herbed fried potatoes, choclo and aji amarillo sauce. Non-raw rolls dominate, like a lobster maki roll or A5 Wagyu beef handroll.
What makes the experience more notable and “whole package” is cocktails from Danny Louie, Brick x Brick Hospitality’s new bar director, formerly running all bars at the now-closed LINE Hotel SF. I’ve been writing about Danny the past decade, one of the nation’s great, most creative bartenders many still don’t know about (and should). Six Peruvian-influenced cocktails wow, exemplifying his usual nuanced inventiveness with an impeccable sense of balance. One great is Aji Guanbana, combining Barsol Pisco, chrysanthemum, guanabana, apple and umeshu (Japanese plum liqueur). The fruit gains intrigue and balance from aji peppers, peanuts and piloncillo (unrefined whole cane sugar).
Service is also tight, with a standout and growing sake list being another draw here, thanks to sake sommelier Amy Kunert, who came from greats like the Omakase Restaurant Group and Ichi Sushi. All in all, the new KAIYŌ is fun and chill, a welcome contrast to the likewise fun but ever-packed rooftop upstairs.
// 701 3rd Street, Floor 1; www.kaiyosf.com/restaurant
Modern Colombian Rarity: Parche, Oakland
Debuting in Uptown Oakland January 2023, Parche is a U.S. rarity of modern Colombian food and cocktails in a festive, colorful, roomy space. A tight Latin playlist and bustling crowd keeps the space elevated in volume, but digging into the cocktails and food, I quickly find real substance here. I already long for more Colombian food since my travels in Bogota (Chao Pescao is one of the rarities in SF for quality Colombian with modern flair). I’m grateful chef Paul Iglesias (formerly of Canela Bistro in SF’s Castro district) pulls from his Colombian heritage at Parche, a cuisine rich with influence from Africa, Lebanon, Spain and Colombia’s indigenous roots.
Yes, there are patacones (smashed fried plantains) and arepas, but also vibrant ceviches, like the signature tumaco (rock cod, coconut milk, red serranos, cilantro-basil oil, leche de tigre sauce) or a vegan “tiradito” of shaved celery root, roasted pepper leche de tigre, black garlic vegan aioli, smoked green grapes and Fresno chiles. Both ceviches burst with flavor and texture. Seafood offerings are highlights, including salmon salpicon, a tartare laced with black pepper aioli, capers, jalapeño-cilantro aioli, dramatically flanked by fried plantain rings. A classic shredded beef and a quail egg arepa comforts, while hearty entrees like posta negra, a Cartagena-style, Mexican Coke-braised short rib, play with spices in the braise and sweet-savory contrast with a yuca-coconut mash.
The wine list holds intrigues like a crisp Brincadeiro Naturalmente Turbio White Natural Wine from Galicia, Spain. Cocktails are playful and well-crafted, with a Spanish-influenced gin and tonic section and Margarita flights. I’d go for the fab Como un Lulo, a blessed blend of funky, grassy Oaxacan rum, white rum, aguardiente spirit and lulo, aka naranjilla fruit. It recalls a Caribbean Ti Punch from the isle of Martinique with rum-forward agricole vibes, spirituous yet bright with lime oils. While this drink reigns, there are numerous balanced, vivacious drinks featuring South American fruits like feijoa and guanabana (soursop). Parche is a refreshingly welcome “whole package” Colombian restaurant.
// 2295 Broadway, Oakland; www.parcheoak.com
Blissfully Affordable Italian Tavola Calda/Osteria: Bettola
Bettola opened May 31, 2024, from owner Gianluca Legrottaglie and director of operations Jacopo Rosito of 54 Mint and multiple Montesacro pinsa restaurants — with business partner Daniele Carsano. The charming, rustic space debuted in the Inner Richmond as an order-at-the-counter or table service osteria, tavola calda (self-service, cafeteria-type restaurant) and rosticceria (rotisserie).
Chef Bruce Binn (formerly of Spork, Thermidor) turns out timballo, juicy rotisserie chicken (half $15, whole $27), a rotating daily special and a number of dishes. Or hefty chef’s choice platters for two for $75, if you want to try a range. There’s a Tuesday through Friday 3–6pm aperitivo happy hour, a closed-in front patio, Italian black-and-white films showing on the wall, a communal table indoors next to a retail area selling Italian groceries like dried pasta, oils, vinegars and canned fish, alongside Italian books curated by neighboring Green Apple Books.
The menu is unexpectedly affordable, mostly ranging $7–16 with only a tender porchetta or whole chicken entering the $20s. Timballo pastas and polpette (beef-prosciutto meatballs) comfort, while highlights are peperoni ripieni al nero (squid risotto-stuffed bell peppers) and salt cod baccalà mantecato. All is even better with the range of Italian wines or vermouth and housemade gelato for dessert. They also just launched Tuesday through Friday lunch and added Sunday evenings.
This team hits it out of the park every time and Bettola is a more casual, all-day feel kind of hang that veers a different direction from their other restaurants.
// 343 Clement Street, www.bettolasf.com
Sunny Castro Cottage: Fisch & Flore
Debuting April 2024 in the ever-enchanting, triangle-shaped corner Castro garden and glass-walled cottage on busy Market Street, Fisch & Flore is the most joyous I’ve experienced that space over my 23 years in SF. Formerly Cafe Flore with its rich gay history, it’s great to see the space alive again after years of closure. With bright pinks and greens and that inviting front patio, the design and glass walls keep it sunny, but more chic than the prior design. F&F remains super-relaxed, serving weekday lunch, weekend brunch and evenings, Wednesday through Sunday.
Sweetheart staff sometimes call you by name and the vibe is upbeat with early 1990s rap blissfully playing during a weekday lunch visit. You can as easily go solo with a book or computer or with friends. I’ve done both and was treated warmly alone or with friends. Though simple, the cocktails are well balanced (like Art&Choke: Campari, gin, peppercorn syrup, grapefruit), which never happened before in this space. The food is likewise a step or two above expectations. Even a salmon sandwich melded into its brioche bun, the silky, medium-rare fish redolent in black truffle mayo and chimichurri sauce. F&F feels pure Castro, but modernized and current.
// 2298 Market Street, www.fischandflore.com
Cozy Nob Hill Italian: Collina
Debuting September 2023 on Nob Hill, Collina (meaning “little hill”) was opened by Alexis Solomou, owner of Russian Hill Italian staple, Seven Hills — yes, also serving their iconic raviolo al uovo, or one giant ricotta, egg and nettles ravioli. In fact, Collina is housed in the original location for Seven Hills (now three blocks away). Chef/partner Anthony Florian and sous chef Dennis Diaz focus on a handful of starters, pastas and a couple secondi (mains).
English pea arancini oozes Point Reyes gouda cheese and Vialone Nano rice in wild ramp aioli. The Sicilian snack changes seasonally here and is the strongest starter. While a rather gummy lemon tart was a bit of a disappointment for dessert, a special of the day — ahi tuna crudo dotted with avocado crema, strawberries, radishes and a passionfruit vinaigrette — is bright, sweet and clean. 48-layer lasagnette comforts in Bolognese ragu and creamy spinach fonduta. In a city packed with Italy-worthy pasta and superb Italian restaurants, I wouldn’t head here first. But when in Nob Hill, service is sweet and welcoming and the food comforts in this cozy spot.
// 1550 Hyde Street, www.collinasf.com
Bonus Takeout/Delivery Recommends:
— Fuwa Dumpling, Outer Richmond: Open April 2024, this new Chinese dumpling spot from owners who hail from Shenyang nails dumplings. But also unexpected treats — like thin folded, fried chive or crab cream cheese “pancakes” (the latter they list as “fried crab cheese puff”) — are breezier, lighter versions of green onion cakes or crab meat rangoon. www.doordash.com/store/fuwa-dumpling-san-francisco-29287067
— Oraan Thai, Inner Richmond: Open September 2023, Oraan Thai Eatery’s Pam Nanthawan Kumtongkum and Karl Holland do right by noodles dishes as they do by laab and pad Thai. Standouts are fun appetizers like curry puffs soft with potato, chicken and carrots in curry sauce, brightened by cucumber relish and crushed peanuts. www.oraansf.com
— Xian Bistro, Outer Sunset: Thank goodness! Another Xian Chinese food outpost that opened fall 2023 in the Outer Sunset. www.xianbistro.com
— L’Mida, Marina: Cal-Moroccan L’mida opened January 2023 from the owners of Khamsa. While some dishes are better than others, I welcome a new source for tagines and bastilla (here filled with duck, Turkish apricots, almonds), even if Mourad continues to make the best in town at Aziza. www.lmidasf.com
